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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.